Collecting Textiles

June 22, 2018

I have to confess that I enjoy collecting textiles. Many collectors disavow collecting anything made of fabric because of the conservation and preservation issues. The fear of the moth and silk rot and acid burn keep many people from collecting clothing, coverlets, quilts, etc. And yet, I would argue that fabric is immensely durable over time. I have seen rare South American bird feather capes that were centuries old.
The fear of deterioration with textiles is not something to be sloughed off, but it also should not be a major deterrent from collecting. The issues with textiles are really about maintaining a constant and stable environment for the items. Attics and basements are not good choices for obvious reasons. At a more micro level, neither are wooden blanket chests unless there is a protective layer between the wood and the textiles.
Critters are always a worry, and I have my own treatments for handling issues. Items new to the collection go into a bag with mothballs for a couple of months. Mothballs are toxic, and I caution people to be careful in handling them. I recall a collector who had a major league collection of items, but he dosed them heavily with mothballs. The result was the entire house reeked of the smell, and I am sure it contributed to his early demise. When we lived n New Mexico, the preferred treatment was freezing and thawing. Rug collectors would freeze a weaving for a month and then let it thaw for a week to have the surviving bugs hatch. Then back into the freezer to kill them off. They swore it worked, yet I was never completely sure.
Restoring textiles is complex and should not be taken on by the novice. Using original materials is critical not only for accuracy’s sake, but also so that modern materials do not react with the antique. I do recommend you identify someone who can help you restore items properly. Cleaning is also a topic that should be reserved for someone skilled in old textiles. I have seen so many Indian weavings where the owner couldn’t resist popping them into the wash, and the colors bled. Pink is a not a great choice for an Indian weaving.
I also do encourage people to enjoy their textiles. We use coverlets and antique tablecloths at the holidays. Rugs look great on antique tables. The costume collection is not for wearing, but it is a great study and conversation piece for us when people come to the house. Samplers are on our walls, and my political handkerchief collection is always something that I enjoy.
Collecting textiles is fun, and there are a lot of opportunities for the savvy collector to acquire wonderful pieces at reasonable prices. Pennsylvania German traditional clothing, weavings, modern costuming from Hollywood, and lots of other areas are still undervalued for the smart collector.

Peter Seibert, a native Pennsylvanian, grew up in the antiques business and remains closely tied to auction houses, collectors, and dealers. Professionally, he has served as a museum director and public historian in Pennsylvania, New Mexico, and Virginia. He holds an M.A. in American Studies from Penn State and has authored two books and numerous articles on decorative arts, interior design, and history. 
Peter Seibert

Peter Seibert

Peter Seibert, a native Pennsylvanian, grew up in the antiques business and remains closely tied to auction houses, collectors, and dealers. Professionally, he has served as museum director and public historian in Pennsylvania, New Mexico and Virginia. He holds an M.A. in American Studies from Penn State and has authored two books and numerous articles on decorative arts, interior design, and history.

 

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